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> A Pays des Vins destination guide (scroll down)
Apologies for this 'old-fashioned' web page. We are
in the process of updating this section of our
website - Justin & Alex |
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Bordeaux Wine Country
Alternative Aquitaine's
Destination Guide
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Classic France - go native for a week or two
Pays des Vins is classic France, and more.
The
home of ancient, characterful villages and market towns such as St
Emilion, exceptional food and, of course, wine - including
the grands crus which make the region famous.
There’s
also rolling countryside, historic sites and
startling Baroque châteaux. Plus recently transformed Bordeaux for modern European city-culture.
All of this and magnificent Atlantic beaches, tranquil
lakes, even the caves and gorges of the Dordogne are
just an easy day-trip away.
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We've
picked out five 'must-dos' when on holiday in Pays des Vins:
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| 1 |
Private tour of a small 'artisanal' wine producer - many are
expert at conveying the art and passion that goes into making
a bottle of good Bordeaux wine, after all it's their life! |
| 2 |
A
day in Bordeaux, strolling the Quartier St Pierre - along
ancient narrow pedestrianed streets you happen unexpectedly
on beautiful squares, stunning churches, bijou shops - a delight |
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Browsing
the arcades and stalls on market day, followed
by lunch in one the busy cafes on the square - French life
at its most animated and fun |
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Cycle
ride from Créon along the dis-used railway to explore
one of the nearby villages |
5 |
Take the Larmarque-to-Blaye ferry, lunch and stroll
around this historic town, then home again through the Libournais
- an easy journey of delightful contrasts |
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Pays
des Vins is a region of contrasting landscapes, from the chalky
Médoc plains on the left bank of the Gironde estuary,
to the rivers and rolling hills and valleys of Entre-Deux-Mers (literally, ‘between two seas’, which are in fact
the rivers Dordogne and Garonne).
The broad, gently
meandering rivers set the pace of life here. This is a land
of great character, authenticity, peace and quiet. If you
like browsing markets, fascinating days out (vineyards, beaches,
walks/bike rides, ancient towns), all accompanied by an outstanding
range and quality of food and drink this is the place to come!
Wine
We
have outlined Bordeaux's main wine-producing regions and a
compiled brief overview of the types of wine each is known
for in the Bordeaux wine section.
For wine-tasting
courses the Bordeaux Ecole du Vin offers 2 hour, 1 day and weekend courses on discovering
and testing the wines of the region.
Cycling
Numerous tracks which enable
you to safely see the countryside. One of the best is a
disused railway line running between Sauveterre-de-Guyenne and Bordeaux. At a distance of
55 kms each way, this is not for the beginner although the
route is mostly flat. You can pick the trail up about half-way
at Créon, where the Créon Station Velos at the station can help with bike hire and equipment. An
on-line map of the route is available from the Gironde Tourist Board cycling web page. There are hire shops in the major towns.
Horse-riding
There are opportunities for horse-riding throughout
the region, including in the Médoc vineyards, through
forest at Belin-Beliet south of Bordeaux, and in the Entre-deux-Mers
countryside at Sadirac (near Créon) and Monségur
(near Duras). A map of trails around Belin-Beliet is available
form the Gironde
Tourist Board's walking and horse-riding web page: .
Walking
The Gironde tourist office publishes 19 walkers’ routes including the areas
around St Emilion, Créon, Sauveterre-de-Guyenne, Langon and Cadillac. Many of these routes are also
suitable for bikes.
Marathon-running!
The annual Medoc Marathon takes place each year on the second Saturday in September.
Canoeing
Available on local rivers - this is a fantastically different
way of seeing the landscape, with over 40 miles of circuits
nearby, on the River Leyre at Belin-Beliet, the Ciron at
Villandraut and the Dordogne close to St Emilion and its
tributary, the L’Isle.
Golf
There are 11 courses in the Pays des Vins, most
in a cluster in a 30-40 minute drive of Bordeaux. take a look at our golfing holidays in south west France.
Water
sports
Waterskiing, windsurfing, boat rides, etc,
are available at lakes in and close to the Pays des Vins
at Hostens (southern Gironde), Blasimon (near Creon) and Lac de Clarens nr
Casteljaloux.
Spa
day
Caudalie Vinotherapie Spa is in the middle of the Château Smith
Haut Lafitte vineyards, just south of Bordeaux.
The spa offers unique beauty treatments derived from grand
cru grapes of the Graves appelation renowned for their anti-ageing
and micro-circulation improving properties - in short, visitors
apparently come out feeling good! Combine it with a vineyard
visit (by appointment) too.
Cookery
classes
Learn how to cook like a Michelin-starred
Aquitaine chef! Several establishments offer courses in
the region, including: Les Sources de Caudalie about 25 kms south west of Bordeaux, and Chapon
Fin cookery school in Bordeaux itself.
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As
well as offering a wealth of places of interest of its own,
the Pays des Vins is also located such that highlights of
the Aquitaine coast and even the Dordogne are within a 60-90
minute drive.
Markets
A 'must-do' of any trip to this region, for the quality and
colour of the produce, and the lively atmosphere. To the
east of the region are the markets of Bergerac, Ste-Foy-la-Grande.
Eymet, Miramont, Duras & Monsegur. To the west there’s
Cadillac, Créon, La Réole, Libourne, Langon,
plus Bazas, Salles and St Symphorien to the south.
Châteaux
& vineyard visits
Where to start?!
If tasting & learning is your aim, to help over 650
wine-making properties are members of the Vignobles & Chaisin Bordeaux,
a scheme under which producers offer guided tours and assisted
tastings. Many of our owners in the region know local
wine-makers (one or two are winemakers themselves)
who will give you a highly personalised tour of their vineyards
and cellars – it adds another dimension to a wine’s
taste when you’ve visited the terroir and met the
viticulteur who bottled it!
If
you simply want to gaze at the more sumptuous châteaux,
a good option is the route des vins in the Médoc,
the D2 road just south of Lesparre-Médoc to Macau,
which takes you past the most famous and prestigious properties: Château Cos d’Estournel, Château
Lafite Rothschild, Château Mouton
Rothschild, Château Latour and Château Margaux.
Many
of the major châteaux only offer tours and tastings
by appointment, simply because they are very popular! (Follow
the links above for contatc details.) However there
are a few which are open to casual visitors, for example: Château Siran, Labarde (Médoc); Château
de Rouillac (Pessac-Léognan); Château de Malle (Sauternes, highly recommended - afternoons only without
appointment); Château Le Luc Regula (Entre-Deux-Mers); Château de Roques (St Emilion).
Literary-minded
visitors might enjoy visiting writers’ châteaux,
including those of Montaigne (Chateau de la Brede,
approx. 20 kms south of Bordeaux) and Francois Mauriac's
country house at Saint Maixant (another 20 kms south-west from La Brede)
Historic
villages and towns
In the Pays des Vins
you are spoilt for choice. St Emilion is
the one most people head for, but go early in the day, or
out of season, to avoid the crowds. Equally historic, but
smaller, are Sauve-Majeure and La
Réole, definitely worth a visit. Many other
of the region’s towns boast character and history
– Libourne, Créon, Duras, Sainte Foy-la-Grande are
all very enjoyable places to lunch and then stroll afterwards.
City
culture in Bordeaux
It used to be a bit grim and a touch snooty.
These days, however, Bordeaux
is a transformed city: smartened-up buildings, extensively
pedestrianised and a 21st century tram system, the combination
of historic and new makes Bordeaux the epitome of a modern
European city. This didn't happen overnight; the revitalisation of Bordeaux has taken 15 years.
The city centre around the Grand
Théatre and Cours de l’Intendance is a marvel – it’s not difficult to
appreciate the wealth and vision of the city’s planners
of its hey-days, over two centuries ago. Try the free entry Musee d'Aquitaine to gem up on Bordeaux history.
Extensive shopping
on the Rue Ste Catherine, a vast choice
of cafés and restaurants, the stunning Cathédrale
St-André, make Bordeaux an excellent day
or two out. The Bordeaux tourist office by the Grand Théatre
offers walking guides.
The riverfront is now the coolest part of the city. At the Facade des Quais a 'must visit' is the Place de la Bourse, a shimmering mirror of water which cools off hot feet on a summer's day and looks breathtaking when illuminated at night. The whole area is buzzing with cafes, galleries and restaurants. Wine buffs should head straight for Maison du Vin, HQ of the Bordeaux Wine Council - they do wine-tasting courses too. Yum.
If you are staying for a bite, try l'Autre Petit Bois (12 Place du Parelemt) or Fernand (7 Quai de la Douane).
Days
by the lake
There are inland lakes at Hostens (southern Gironde), Lac de Clarens nr
Casteljaloux (south-west part of the Pays des Vins, on the
Lot-et-Garonne border) and at Blasimon (Entre-Deux-Mers)
All have sandy beaches, and bathing is usually supervised
in July & August. With a picnic it’s a very pleasant
and relaxing day.
Days
at the seaside
The endless expanses of golden
sand and rolling waves characteristic of the Atlantic coast's
beaches - Le Grand Crohot, about 10 km
due west of Lège-Cap Ferret is particularly recommended,
you can always find a quiet spot to yourself. Alternatively,
there's the very family-friendly resorts of Lacanau-Océan and Arcachon. Or try the oyster-farming
villages and pine-and-sand-dune landscape of La Presqu'Ile
de Cap Ferret, a very different world from
the Pays des Vins.
Explore
the Dordogne
To the north and east is the
rich gastronomic and cultural heritage of the Dordogne -
its truffles, many caves (eg at Sarlat, Lascaux, Font-de-Gaume)
and fortified towns are within an hour and a half's drive.
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| WINE |
Alternative
Aquitaine's brief introduction to the wines of Bordeaux, focusing
on the five best-known wine-producing regions:
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Haut-Médoc
The home of world-class wine. Made up of five famous appellations (north
to south) on the left bank of the Gironde north-west of Bordeaux: Saint-Estèphe, Pauillac, Saint-Julien, Listrac-Médoc and, of course, Margaux. Famed for deep, exceptionally
characterful, Cabernet-Sauvignon based reds.
Graves & Pessac-Léognan
South-east of Bordeaux on the left-bank of the Garonne (as the Gironde
becomes as you ascend the river south-eastwards). Produces outstanding,
blackcurranty Cabernet-Sauvignon-based reds and flinty Sauvignon Blancs, the ideal accompaniment to Cap Ferret
oysters.
Sauternes
Landlocked by the Graves region is the Sauternes appellation, known for exceptionally high quality sweet white wines based on
the Sémillon grape variety. The best known example
is probably Château Yquem, the producer of the
world’s greatest sweet wine. Perfect with its Gascon partner, foie
gras - food and wine heaven.
Entre-Deux-Mers
Entre-Deux-Mers is the area between the rivers Dordogne and Garonne, extending
from Bordeaux towards the Dordogne/Lot border near Duras. Home to a great
variety of wines – deep, fruity reds (Cabernet-Sauvignon/Merlot blends), though probably better for known for its sweet and dry
whites. Many multi-skilled producers make all three!
St Emilion & Pomerol
St Emilion and Pomerol rival the aristocrats of the Haut-Médoc
as the source of Bordeaux's best known wines. Characterised by intense,
merlot-based reds, including Pétrus,
possibly the most famous wine in the world? The area extends in the north-west
into the less well-known Côtes de Blaye and Côtes
de Bourg (on the right bank of the Gironde, not shown on the
map), with the same emphasis on merlot-based reds.
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If
you enjoy good food and wine, Pays des Vins is the right place
for you!
Local markets are famed for their huge range of produce: mushrooms, poultry
(especially capons), Jerusalem artichokes, rare potatoes,
radishes, elderberries… an endless list of local specialities
– and we’ve not even started on the Périgord
truffles, Agen prunes, etc, from neighbouring departments.
Here’s a selection of local dishes to whet
your appetite:
Starter
Oysters (huîtres)
from the Bay of Arcachon, served with little
sausages (crépinettes), fresh bread and salted
butter. Or Blaye asparagus (asperges)
from the right bank of the Gironde, served plain or with a
vinaigrette dressing. Or why not foie gras,
like the rest of the south-west a staple of the Psys des Vins
diet, with a glass of fine Sauternes?
Fish
course
We can suggest white shrimps (crevettes)
from the Gironde estuary, seasoned with aniseed; or Bordeaux-style
lamprey (lamproie à la Bordelaise), a classic
of Pay des Vins cooking, served in a red wine and leek sauce.
Or a simple sea-bass (bar or loup),
landed in Arcachon, grilled and served with a shallot sauce?
How about Médoc king prawns (langoustines)
– almost half of France’s production comes from
here.
Main
course
Many simple, hearty choices based on exceptional
quality of produce: oven-roasted Pauillac lamb (agneau de Pauillac), a meat as tender as they come; or the
equally tender boeuf de Bazas, served with
parsley and garlic. Bordeaux-style rib steak (entrecôte à la Bordelaise) cooked on
vine shoots and served with a red-wine and shallot sauce. Wood pigeon (palombe), a prized hunting produce
in the Gironde (you might spot the shooting platforms –
palombiers – on woodland walks), cooked with salami.
Dessert
Still
hungry? We’ve not finished yet! Our favourite desserts
are: cannelés, delicious small bordelaise
cakes, crunchy and dark on the outside, soft and pale in the
centre with a hint of rum. Impossible to eat just one at a
sitting! Or St Emilion macarons,
fondant cakes made of almonds, sugar and egg-white. And not
forgetting sabayon au Sauternes, a cream mousse made
of egg yolk, sugar and flavoured with Sauternes wine.
Where to Eat
An innovative scheme is also run in Aquitaine in association
with 74 restauranteurs and 23 café owners, called Assiette
et Café de Pays. Establishments with this
label, many of them in the Pays des Vins, are committed to enabling visitors to sample local specialities and
explain their origins, all in a convivial atmosphere.
A wonderful way of making French life more accessible! A pdf
with details and participating establishments is available
from Tourism
Aquitaine (click to download).
Bon
appétit! |
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